14 June 2007
Hi
At 7am on Thursday 14 June, we lifted anchor in the small harbour of Korfos and motored all the way to the Corinth Canal. The wind came up to 15knots but it was right on the nose and pointless to try and tack up the gulf with islands and fish farms and bouys to dodge. We arrived at midday but waited an hour for the Canal Master to collect the dues from a westbound motor yacht which couldn’t tie up to the jetty. We didn’t mind the wait; the Germans behind us got very impatient and ranted and raved about the Greeks and their chaotic marine management.
We waited anxiously to find out how much we would be levied. In the past the fees have been calculated on tonnage (and we are a heavy slow 29 ton boat). We smiled with relief when it was done on our length since the Corinth is the most expensive canal in the world to transit.
After refueling at 1 euro per litre we threw our lines and led the fleet of just four yachts through the canal following closely behind our pilot boat. Fortunately, there were no ships ahead to churn up the water like a washing machine and the nor-westerly that had blown all morning had not created even a ripple in this 3.2mile stretch of narrow water.
Its width of just 25 meters and tall sheer rock faces took our breath away. It is incredulous that this waterway was carved out by 6000 Jewish prisoners under Nero’s direction but was only finished by the French and Greeks in the late 1800s. Apparently the Ancients used to drag their ships across the Isthmus on a paved road.
We exited at the western end and headed around into Corinth Harbour where we found Margarita, our Australian friends who we have sailed with since 1996 tied up alongside the visitors berth. Both Howard and Margaret and their crew looked rather ashen. The harbour master had just advised them that for their two crew to depart and fly out of Athens would require a payment of Euro2,000 – NZ$4,000. It seems there are different rules applying to crew and passengers taken on in the Aegean islands and those that are enforced in the mainland harbours. 24hours has now past and the two crew have discretely absconded to catch their plane. We are staying close by Margarita to ensure they don’t end up with a confiscated yacht, or worse, in jail.
At 7am on Thursday 14 June, we lifted anchor in the small harbour of Korfos and motored all the way to the Corinth Canal. The wind came up to 15knots but it was right on the nose and pointless to try and tack up the gulf with islands and fish farms and bouys to dodge. We arrived at midday but waited an hour for the Canal Master to collect the dues from a westbound motor yacht which couldn’t tie up to the jetty. We didn’t mind the wait; the Germans behind us got very impatient and ranted and raved about the Greeks and their chaotic marine management.
We waited anxiously to find out how much we would be levied. In the past the fees have been calculated on tonnage (and we are a heavy slow 29 ton boat). We smiled with relief when it was done on our length since the Corinth is the most expensive canal in the world to transit.
After refueling at 1 euro per litre we threw our lines and led the fleet of just four yachts through the canal following closely behind our pilot boat. Fortunately, there were no ships ahead to churn up the water like a washing machine and the nor-westerly that had blown all morning had not created even a ripple in this 3.2mile stretch of narrow water.
Its width of just 25 meters and tall sheer rock faces took our breath away. It is incredulous that this waterway was carved out by 6000 Jewish prisoners under Nero’s direction but was only finished by the French and Greeks in the late 1800s. Apparently the Ancients used to drag their ships across the Isthmus on a paved road.
We exited at the western end and headed around into Corinth Harbour where we found Margarita, our Australian friends who we have sailed with since 1996 tied up alongside the visitors berth. Both Howard and Margaret and their crew looked rather ashen. The harbour master had just advised them that for their two crew to depart and fly out of Athens would require a payment of Euro2,000 – NZ$4,000. It seems there are different rules applying to crew and passengers taken on in the Aegean islands and those that are enforced in the mainland harbours. 24hours has now past and the two crew have discretely absconded to catch their plane. We are staying close by Margarita to ensure they don’t end up with a confiscated yacht, or worse, in jail.
Last evening we had a traditional Greek dinner for their departing crew; Greek Mezes; sardines, saganaki, sea bass and Greek salads and carafes of local wine.
Today we had an easy day – finding a rental car firm to go exploring tomorrow – more provisioning and browsing the designer shops . Tony had his first experience of being robbed – Euro 200 – so quick and not even in a crowded place. It was a good lesson to be more vigilant in locking our outboard motors and dinghy and ensuring our hatches and portholes are closed at night so we don’t wake up to find laptops and cameras have disappeared overnight. Amazing, that we have been through the Red Sea and all the poverty stricken countries where you would expect this to happen and here in Greece in what appears to be a prosperous port and hey presto the money has flown out of the back pocket and the backpack has also been raided.
Tonight we enjoyed a quiet pasta dinner on board Antares with Margarita. We’ll be early to bed so we can leave at 7am tomorrow for our inland exploring of the Peloponese.
Then, we head west for new adventures in the Gulfs of Corinth and Patras.
Warmest to all
Esmae
Tonight we enjoyed a quiet pasta dinner on board Antares with Margarita. We’ll be early to bed so we can leave at 7am tomorrow for our inland exploring of the Peloponese.
Then, we head west for new adventures in the Gulfs of Corinth and Patras.
Warmest to all
Esmae
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